Wow, it sure has been a while... my first instinct is to apologize, but who am I apologizing to? And what's the point? Also, isn't a blog supposed to be casual? Write when you want and all?
I haven't felt particularly inspired to write this blog in the past few months. There have been many adjustments in mine and Bryan's lives, and dealing with married life and the things that can come with that, and joblessness and then having a job, and then adjusting to a job all took it's toll.
Anyway, I am now feeling more inspired as we have just returned from a long trip in Europe. It was originally supposed to be our honeymoon trip. The deal was that we would take a delayed honeymoon because the weather would be better in the spring/summer in England and Italy (our 2 choice countries), and also Bryan would be able to take 2 full weeks if we waited until the new year (2011) because he took so much time for all of the weddings we participated in last year (bachelor parties and the like). We actually took a trip immediately after our wedding- it was NOT planned, and was somewhat impulsive due to major, major, major airfare sales. So we went back to Chicago and also Austin, TX, but in our hearts Europe was going to be the real deal.
It was laughably not a honeymoon. But it was a good trip. We started out in London, which I remember being harsh from when I studied there one summer, but not as harsh as it was this time... I guess I should have known there was something of a dark cloud over our trip when the plane taxied the runway at JFK for 3 hours before even taking off due to thunderstorms. We arrived in London, and nothing seemed to work- our cellphones were SUPPOSED to work, but didn't and it took us over an hour and many wasted pounds figuring out why. Since our cells didn't work, we couldn't get in touch with the man whom we were renting an apartment from. So we sat in the airport for a few hours trying to sort that out (his phone number was in our phones, but on our calendars, which was connected to the internet, but since we had no service, we weren't connected to the internet, etc., etc.).
Anyway, we figured it out and got in touch with the person, and headed over to Notting Hill, where we were staying. We waited street side for this guy to come meet us. In true European fashion, he took his sweet time. P.S. London was freakin cold. So we are standing on the side of the street in MAYBE 60 degree weather (but windy and overcast), after traveling for nearly 12 hours...he shows up, unlocks the door, and proceeds to lead us up a flight of stairs to the room. Then another flight. And another. And another. Despite the cool breezes coming in from the windows, Bryan was pouring sweat as he lugged a giant suitcase (and I was lugging a smaller suitcase). We walked up 89 steps to arrive at.......THE SMALLEST, CRAPPIEST, DIRTIEST APARTMENT EVER!!! It was nothing like the picture advertised (hey thanks, Airbnb). It was not 2 rooms- a bedroom lofted "upstairs" and a kitchen/living room down.. it was a bed that was on a pulley system to be pulled down over the couch for sleep time. Awesome. No toilet paper, 1 towel. Random hairs everywhere. You had to step in the shower to open or close the door behind you. But what was done was done. Paid for (so expensive), and we were EXHAUSTED. What were we to do but try to make the best of it? So that we did.
Anyway, long story short, London had more of the same in store for us- rain, hail, obnoxious ferry boat captains taking off 5 minutes before departure time as we sprint towards the docks yelling for him to wait. We got to the boat (before departure time) while it was still docked and he decided to untie the rope as soon as we got there, panting. IT WAS STILL DOCKED AND WE COULD HAVE WALKED ON IF HE DIDN'T PHYSICALLY BLOCK US FROM DOING SO!(luckily, a competing boat company witnessed this monstrosity let us on their boat with no tickets).
Anyway. We left London (it wasn't ALL bad, by the way), and flew to Venice. We arrived in Venice and our bus broke down. At 11 PM at night. In VENICE, ITALY, where the majority of workers do not really appear to give a damn about ANYTHING. This is a place (Italy) where seldom things are open for business. I had an extreme need for a pharmacy during my time in Italy. Nothing was open. Fan-friggin-tastic.
But I digress. By the time we reached Venice proper (i.e. not the airport), it was after midnight. We had almost resigned ourselves to walking an hour, dragging suitcases across "quaint and charming" cobblestones when like a beautiful angel, a patron saint of travelers - a vapporetti (which is simply a boat taxi) appeared amidst the fog in the night.
From that point on, Venice treated us like gold and so did all of its inhabitants. It was a welcome change from cold, condescending London.
After 2 days in Venice, we were forced to skip town due to this huge art festival - La Biannale. All of the hotels were booked- ALL (which we knew beforehand so it wasn't a surprise or anything), so we decided to check out Verona since it has a great reputation. It was also on the way to our last stop, which was Sulzano (where Bryan's family resides).
Verona was underwhelming to say the least. It was very "touristica" as the kids in Italy would say... just fancy stores everywhere, not a quaint little village at all. The coliseum was ok, I guess, but during our time there a famous Italian rockstar was hosting several shows, so when we paid the admission fee to see the inside of the historic coliseum what we saw was a concert venue akin to Jones Beach Theater (sorry, the NIKON Jones Beach Theater, my bad). The only redeeming thing about that situation was that the rockstar was someone named Zucchero- please see link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zucchero_Fornaciari. Bryan and I enjoyed google image searching him and repeating his name very dramatically throughout the rest of the trip.
We also had a few nice meals in Verona, where horse meat is a specialty. Since Bryan and I like to blend as much as possible when we travel and we try very hard to adapt and learn about where we are, we went for it. We ordered the cavallo. And let me tell you, after I separated myself from the fact that it was horse meat (which, I'll be honest took awhile and really only resulted in me eating 2 bites), it was DELICIOUS. Sorry, PETA. It was.
Ok. Onto the next Italian city! We met Bryan's cousin in Brescia, which is about a half an hour away from Sulzano, which is a town on Lake Iseo, a gorgeous lake in Northern Italy. Sulzano literally took my breath away. I don't have much experience with mountains (what with living in lower NY my whole life), but man are they majestic. The backdrop of the scene in Sulzano was just gorgeous. Beautiful mountains rising up above the water... colorful roofs (rooves?) dotting the picture. Oh my.
Bryan's aunt and uncle own an apartment next door to her son- she stays there when she visits him. So that is where we were able to stay. It was impeccable- clean, bright, had an espresso maker and that warm homey feeling you hope for when staying in someone else's home. What more could a girl ask for?
Ok. Let me get to the main reason I am writing this blog, and what has inspired my "Made with Love" posts and sentiment to reappear.
Each individual in Bryan's Italian family is unlike anyone I've ever met, but much like people I have hoped and dreamed of meeting. They are characters from a book or movie. They gesture when speaking. They give hard slaps on the back, tight hugs, and kiss you at least twice on each cheek. They are unassuming, and so genuine that Bryan and I would often look at each other just shaking our heads in disbelief (in a good way). They are so authentically what I pictured Italians to be, I could not even believe it.
So. We were introduced to the Italian way of life from a non-tourist perspective. They cooked most of their meals, and lunch is the biggest meal of the day. On our first full day, Bryan's aunt and uncle drove from their everyday home in Ossimo to Sulzano to see us. Giovanni got to work cooking up "pranzo" while Teresa, Paolo, Bryan, and I toured the gorgeous town of Sulzano. When we got back cooking was in full swing. I enjoyed watching the art. It was clear that every stir, every pour, every dash of anything added was done with love. It was spectacular to see the look of intent on the chef's face as he danced around the kitchen, towel slung over his right shoulder.
We sat for the meal and bowls were passed out, and giant spoonfuls of pasta were distributed. I noticed that the people I encountered in Italy (and London, too) (not just family) were extraordinarily comfortable with just being. They didn't have expectation or a self-consciousness that I find often comes with being American. They just do what they do and that is that. But these people were eager to please since we were their guests and please us they did. The main dish served at lunch that day was farfalle (bowtie) pasta with green olives and a sort of hotdog, sausage type meat. It was something that I would have never in a million years ordered for myself at a restaurant, but it was delicious. And call me cheesey, but I feel that the food I ate there was more delicious because it was made with such care and love.
The rest of the weekend continued in the same vein. Another meal, another showing of respect for food, family, conversation. Meals last for hours on end with multiple courses (I found that a course could consist of a single small piece of cheese).
On our last night in Sulzano Paolo came home late from work. Bryan's aunt, Bryan, and I were already eating dinner when he got home. Bryan and I were astounded when Paolo came into the kitchen, opened a drawer, pulled out a tablecloth, and proceeded to set the table for himself for dinner. This is a 33 year old unmarried man we are talking about. He took pride in setting his place, fixing up his simple dinner, and then enjoying his meal. It was such a beautiful thing to see. I know that people typically think of men as being more lax about setting a nice table and preparing a meal that doesn’t come from a bag or a box first, but in the past few months both Bryan AND I have been very guilty of not only eating take- out food, but eating it on the couch in front of the TV. Every. Single. Night. I’d be ashamed if I weren’t sure that almost everyone I know does this, and also that I am truly inspired to return to our old ways of making something simple and eating at the table after feeling that fulfillment that comes with have a meal without extra noise. There is already so much extra noise everyday all day. Why add more?
I’m also particularly inspired because most of my blog has been food related, and my new family does everything food related with a lot of love. I don’t have to make something I’ve never made before, or something with many steps. One night our dinner consisted of a vegetable broth and an apple (this was due to the fact that I got very sick eating the way they eat there. I’ll be more prepared next time but will also be able to say “basta” now that everyone knows me and there isn’t a chance of insulting anyone). But even on vegetable broth and apple night, we had a sincere and pleasant meal. It was delightful.
I look forward to sharing more adventures in eating and creation with you. I also look forward traveling more, meeting more of my family, and learning more about food and tradition, and sharing those observations with you as well.
